Great and interesting story about a farm in Vermont that is making their cheddar their own, and offering a dairy farming experience to others.
Shelburne Farms, 1,400 acres of pasture, gardens and woodland, designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, along the shore of Vermont’s Lake Champlain. Besides offering $450-a-night accommodations in a 24-room inn, the farm employs 200 shepherds, dairymen, cheesemakers, woodsmen and gardeners, all of them dedicated to living and passing along what the farm calls a “pasture to palate” ethic. Guests can milk doe-eyed Brown Swiss cows beside a milkmaid who knows the Bessies so well she identifies them by their udders. “It’s about teaching people to become part of the story of their food,” says Peter Bullock, who runs summer camps for kids on the farm. “We tell people, ‘Try this! Doesn’t this feel good? Isn’t this fun?'”
Cheese is a relatively recent part of Shelburne’s history. In 1886 William Seward Webb (a physician turned Wall Street financier) and his wife, Eliza (Lila) Osgood Vanderbilt, commissioned Olmsted and architect Robert Henderson Robertson to construct a working farm that could double as a holiday retreat for high-society friends from New York City. It encompassed 3,800 acres with 400 acres of woodland, a breeding barn for carriage horses, a five-story farm barn, a dairy, a carriage barn and a 110-room Queen Anne Revival-style mansion. Olmsted, already distinguished for designing Manhattan’s Central Park, used islands of hardwoods and slopes of clover to make the place a haven of sustainable land management. But the farm fell into disrepair in the 1930s, eventually risking foreclosure until the Webbs’ great-grandchildren–Alexander and Marshall Webb, who, along with their four siblings, stood to inherit the estate–created a nonprofit educational entity on the farm in 1972. As such, the farm could accept donations and apply for federal grants to rebuild and maintain the estate; it also allowed for tax breaks associated with owning a conservation easement. (Papa Webb willed the barns and the land to the nonprofit in 1984.)
Today Shelburne is an unusual blend of nonprofit and for-profit operations that brought in $8.1 million in revenue last year. Of that, $4.1 million came from for-profit businesses: the inn and restaurant ($2.4 million); cheddar sales ($900,000, most of it mail order); gift shop items ($570,000); and special events like weddings and a Mozart festival ($240,000). The rest comes from various not-for-profit sources: the dairy; contributions, gifts and grants (Vermonters are big givers); summer camps; and adult classes on cheesemaking. The farm’s $4 million endowment, invested mostly in money market funds and U.S. Treasurys, kicked in $160,000 or so last year. Whole Foods has recently ponied up a $100,000 order.
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